Free Crochet Pattern - Safety is Sexy Bows! Quick and easy doggo snood and matching hooman ear warmer.
Yarn! So obviously I started with the reflective yarn. I chose Viking of Norway - Viking Garn Reflex. It is 51% wool, 34% polyester and 15% reflective thread, importantly it can be washed at 30℃. I am a natural/neutral girl at heart do went for the silver grey although other colours were available (LoveCrafts are now sold out! it is in stock at RitoHobby) but there are other options available like Hobbii Starlight, RedHeart Reflective, James C Brett Twinkle (please note I am not being paid to mention any of these, there are no affiliate links, just sharing some research).
Stitch! Wattle! I originally found this stitch a few months back when swatching for another project. It gives a lovely texture with some stretch and creates an opaque fabric which is bouncy and soft.
Of course, as awesome as it is, this doesn't have to be reflective yarn, it is gorgeous enough as it is in any old yarn! I did the dogs, mine and my daughters snood and earwarmers in less than 150g.
Materials:
- Reflective yarn in DK/light worsted weight (see bottom of post for suggestions)
- 4.5mm crochet hook (US 7)
- 2 stitch markers
- Scissors and yarn needle to weave in ends
Gauge:
Not important for this pattern. You can use other weighted yarn with corresponding hook size, this will just change your starting chain length and number of rows to get to desired size.
Construction:
Abbreviations (UK terminology):
ch chain
dc double crochet
tr treble crochet
sk skip
rpt repeat
slst slip stitch
SM1 stitch marker 1
SM2 stitch marker 2
Sizing:
- Measure the base of the dogs neck circumference and add 2 " ease - for example Skye's is 16", so finished size is 18" / 46cm. Chain multiples of 3, finishing when you pull the chain slightly taught it is that length. For Skye I had a starting chain of 72 +1
- If you are making for an ear warmer, similarly, measure around the hairline circumference - for example mine is 22" / 56 cm and so had a starting chain of 84 +1.
Notes:
- When working into the starting chain, work into the 'back hump' so that the bottom has the row of v's.
- Ch 1 at beginning of row should be nice and loose, don't tighten it, you need the height
- Keep your tension nice and relaxed throughout ☺
- Using the SM 1 and 2 helps you to find your last stitch for each row, you don't have to use it, but I find it helpful.
Pattern:
- In the 2nd ch from your hook place SM1, then in 4th ch from hook work (dc, ch, tr), sk 2 chs, *(dc, ch, tr), sk 2 chs,* rpt from * to * with one dc in the last ch.
- Turn, ch 1, find the ch space between the tr and dc from previous row - in this space work (dc, ch, tr) and place SM2 in the ch1 from the start of row. Continue (dc, ch, tr) in each ch sp and end the row with a dc in the ch marked by SM1.
- Turn, ch 1 - re place SM1 -, (dc, ch, tr) in each ch sp, and end row with dc marked by SM2
- Turn, ch 1 - re place SM2 -, (dc, ch, tr) in each ch sp, and end row with dc where marked by SM1
ch 1 and pull yarn through to tighten, fasten off.
Take a long cutting of yarn, fold in half, then wrap around the centre of the W numerous times to create the centre knot. Tie off and secure end inside.
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